October 2009
Disturbances in the night, searchlights, gunfire, and armed patrols driving the streets. No, we are not in a war zone, we are in Churchill, Manitoba for the annual Fall gathering of Polar Bears where they wait for Hudson Bay to freeze over. With around 1500 bears on the coast some will inevitably enter populated areas. When they do they are either driven off, trapped, or “darted.” Trapped and darted bears are held in captivity till the freeze-up occurs and then they are released.
Disturbances in the night, searchlights, gunfire, and armed patrols driving the streets. No, we are not in a war zone, we are in Churchill, Manitoba for the annual Fall gathering of Polar Bears where they wait for Hudson Bay to freeze over. With around 1500 bears on the coast some will inevitably enter populated areas. When they do they are either driven off, trapped, or “darted.” Trapped and darted bears are held in captivity till the freeze-up occurs and then they are released.
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Our lodgings and the tours to see the bears were made through the Lazy Bear Lodge company. Their hotel is built almost entirely of logs that were salvage logged off of nearby area that had suffered a forest fire. Otherwise all building material and other goods arrive by train or air since there are no roads to Churchill.
Lee had arranged that we would visit a sled dog kennel the first afternoon. The driver that picked us up told us that he had just seen the patrol crew drive a bear out of town by firing “cracker shells” at him. Cracker shells are fired from a shotgun and make noise and fireworks that, hopefully, scare the bears into leaving.
The sled dog operation we visited was owned by a man whose passion is dog racing. Conducting paid tours of his facility and giving sled rides is his means of supporting his habit and feeding the dogs. He also breeds dogs to sell to other ‘mushers.’ After some time spent meeting dogs and hearing about their care and training we were given a couple of rides. Because there was no snow we rode in a summer dog training vehicle with wheels instead of runners. The first run was made with a seasoned team, but then they put in some newbies to see how they might work out. When the dogs are being hooked up to the traces all the dogs in the kennel go wild because they all want to go.
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Early the next morning we were loaded onto a converted school bus for the first day of bear watching. Everybody got pretty excited at our first bears, even though they were “binocular bears” and we didn’t get very close. That soon changed and we got right on top of some males that were hanging around another sled dog kennel. The bears essentially ignored the dogs although some dogs were pretty excited regarding the bears. Amazing interactions between the bears and these dogs can be found on You-tube. Just enter “bear” and “dog” in the search.


The bears at the dog compound were males, some fairly large, with scars from past fights. Some move around but others just hang out or nap to conserve energy. There is little for them to eat until the ocean freezes and they can pursue seals. They are basically living on their fat while on land.
We saw several females with cubs but only at a distance with binoculars. We got out of the bus only once to look at an “old style: bear trap used to catch bears for research. The guide took his shotgun and told us not to wander off.
We saw several females with cubs but only at a distance with binoculars. We got out of the bus only once to look at an “old style: bear trap used to catch bears for research. The guide took his shotgun and told us not to wander off.
The following day we went into the Wapusk National park and transferred to Tundra buggies. The “roads” in the park are much rougher and it takes a different vehicle design to negotiate the terrain there. We even drove across some shallow lakes.


Great White Bear Tours has a mobile lodge they pull into the park during the season. Visitors to these facilities are quartered here several days right amongst the bears on a 24 hour basis. While at this location a driver of a “honey wagon” came to empty the lodge holding tanks. One bear was attracted to the truck and the driver came out on the landing. His judgment was questioned by both our fellow passengers as well as our guide.




Our tour group had about 25 or 30 people in it. About half were Canadian, the rest had come from the U.S. A., Great Britain, Italy, Germany, Switzerland and Italy. It is definitely an international destination.
Our fourth and last day was spent touring the town and surrounding area. On this trip we were introduced to history (both old and recent), Hudson Bay Company sites (fortifications), how people live here, etc.
Though we came prepared for sub-zero cold, it hovered around freezing through most of our visit. The last day while waiting to go to the airport the wind came up and raised some concern about the airline canceling our flight. Fortunately we were able to leave especially since our room was already occupied by the next shift. Luckily that didn't happen.
Though we came prepared for sub-zero cold, it hovered around freezing through most of our visit. The last day while waiting to go to the airport the wind came up and raised some concern about the airline canceling our flight. Fortunately we were able to leave especially since our room was already occupied by the next shift. Luckily that didn't happen.
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